How to Build a Mini Golf Course Even if You Have No Knowledge
Mini-golf is a really great game for involving the whole family members regardless of their age for fun. Who does not love outdoing some senior family member on the loop-de-loop hole? However it doesn't have to be only a vacation-week pleasure or a retreat weekend. It will be much great if you make your own unique golf course to play all time round. Join me in this project to make one. Do you like it? Let’s get started.
Now we go direct to the list of some of essential materials and what you will need to make your mini golf course;
- Medium-density fiberboard (MDF)
- Wood Glue (or White Glue)
- Hot Glue/ cyanoacrylate glue (to stick parts and will dry a lot faster)
- Duct Tape (to assemble medium parts, to be temporary stuck and keep it in place till things are done but not necessary)
- 5-gallon brackets
- Some wood cutting tool like a table saw, knife, jigsaw, and a drill for your hole
- Some thick strips or dowels of wood to lift your golf course
- Box cutter
Most of these materials like adhesives can do a multipurpose work. But, remember some works best with specific materials, like wood glue works best with good. All the above materials are easy to use and need some small attention. Use gloves when dealing with the adhesives.
1. Prepare the board
Usually use the medium-density fiberboard (MDF) since it is a stable wood composite sheet. It is even and cool to work with, and it marks a great smooth surface for rolling the golf pellet. MDF is available in several standard dimensions, so you won’t necessarily cut it up if you project your course with these possible sizes in mind.
2. Lay out and cut the baluster supports
Put deck balusters along the ends of the MDF board. Mark them to match around the whole board, edge to edge and even with the corners. Use a miter box and backsaw to cut the balusters to wanted length.
3. Glue the baluster supports in place
Put the balusters next to the boundaries of the MDF board. Squeeze some strips of wood adhesive to each baluster, single baluster at a time. Allow a few inches of gap between the bands of wood adhesive. In these spaces, apply dabs of fast-drying cyanoacrylate glue.
In case you use a two-part cyanoacrylate adhesive, apply it with activator. Speedily flip over the baluster on top of the MDF board, line it up, and grip it in position while the cyanoacrylate dries. This adhesive acts as a clamp whereas the wood glue desiccates into a strong tie.
4. Cut the hole
Measure across the MDF, and mark it a little off-center, nearer to one end. By use of a drill fitted with a 4-in. hole saw, make a hole at this point. Once the bit has gone through, turn the board over and polish the cut on the other side. This will prevent the MDF from rupturing.
5. Apply the adhesive
Put a piece (54x72-inch) of felt on a workbench. Stretch it a little, and keep it in place with some spring clamps.
Put the MDF on an elastic drop fabric, far from the felt. Apply the adhesive on the top of the MDF board. Work in long, uniform strokes across the entire MDF. Spray the felt with glue too. Allow both pieces dry rendering to the directions on the can.
6. Stick the felt to the panel
Inspect the felt to ensure it's flawlessly flat. Turn over the MDF and put it over the felt, being cautious not to lease the two-touch. Place the board on the middle of the felt, and push it down. Spray more glue everywhere around the hole and on the supports on the lower part of the board and let it dry.
7. Cut the felt corners
By use of an outlining square and service knife, trim the extra felt at each angle. Hold the square angle to angle with the board, and cut 1½-in. in each corner. At those points, trim the felt diagonally.
8. Wrap the sides
Get some assistants to offer a hand. Tell them pull uniformly along all edges of the felt, and then lift and shawl the felt over the supports.
9. Wrap the hole
In this step cut the felt in the hovel into pieces like a pizza. Then, pull up each piece and wrap it firmly to asylum the vertical sides of the hole.
10. Finish the hole
By use of a hacksaw, cut a PVC pipe suitable into a piece about 2-in. high. Turn the board over and bead the fitting right into the hole.
11. Frame the course
Frame your course with multiple baluster. These are weighty sufficient to resist displacements, and balls bounce attractively off them. You can as well fine-tune them to modify your holes. Add small angled fragments to make corner bumpers
12. Make the Rough
Cut patches out of a green comfy artificial turf to make the rough. Put these island around your course to form barriers for your players.
13. Make a loop-de-loop
Cut the lower three inches off 2 5-gallon buckets, leaving a 1-inch allowance. Then cut an opening thru each spherical piece.
Join the pieces to form a canal. Arrange the open edges, and feast them apart to make a loop. When the loop is attuned, fasten it with duct tape, as well screw the edges to a block complete of 2 short, right-angled pieces of compound baluster.
14. Make a flexible ramp
Using a drill fitted with a 2¾-in. morsel and drill a row of three hovels in the middle of a 12-in. square of MDF. Turn the MDF, and stick 3¼-inch composite supports at each angle, making a platform.
Form the slope by taping a supple plastic sign to the end of the platform. Shawl the top of the stage and the slope in green felt, and trim out the 3 holes. Put in the elbow furnishings into the foot of the platform, bending them in distinct directions. Add a copious composite support to the upper surface of the platform to make it stable and unmovable.
Now you are set for some mini-golf. Take your putter and strike the links!
Was that easy? Absolutely! You can upload a picture or a small video clip to show your work. I wish you all the best, and…don’t forget to hit the comment deck and give some like. I wish you all the best.